Earbud pouches are a great way to keep your headphones clean, neat, and tidy. Unfortunately, most are too small for tiny hands…plus let’s face it, most kids aren’t going to take the time to neatly coil the cords and zippers are just a potential disaster waiting to happen (I can foresee ‘cutting the wires’ with the zipper if you leave any part of the ear bud hanging out of the pouch because they’re in too big of a hurry to stuff it all inside). With that said, I decided to come up with a ‘Kid Friendly’ ear bud pouch: large enough to fit a pair headphones and an easy Velcro closure. It also features a separate lining from the exterior (which means the sewing soundslooks crazy, but stick with me because it will work in the end!). Here’s how to make your own:
Materials:
Fabric scraps for exterior and lining (each should measure at least 6 x 10″)
1″ piece of Velcro
Cutting:
From exterior fabric
Cut 1, 5 1/2 x 6″ rectangle
Cut 1, 5 1/2 x 3 1/2″ rectangle
From lining fabric
Cut 1, 5 1/2 x 6″ rectangle
Cut 1, 5 1/2 x 3 1/2″ rectangle
Sewing: (all seams 1/4″)
1. If you are planning on embroidering a name, design, etc. on your pouch be sure to do this now before you start sewing.
2. With right sides together, sew the top edge of the 5 1/2 x 3 1/2″ exterior and lining rectangles together (if you have a one-way design, name, or design, be sure that your material is facing the correct way!). This will be your front pouch.
3. Turn right side out and press finished edge (topstitch if desired).
4. Open up front pouch, separating the exterior fabric from the lining. Center Velcro across the top of the exterior pouch piece, close to finished edge, and sew in place.
5. Keeping pouch sections open and with right sides together, place exterior pouch section on top of exterior flap piece (the 5 1/2 x 6″ rectangle). You will find that the lining section will hang over the flap piece just slightly. Sew from the top of the pouch seam, down the side, across the bottom, and back up the side (stopping at top seam).
6. Repeat step #5 with the lining. Your end result will be the front pouch sandwiched between the exterior and lining flaps (which remain unsewn at the top).
7. Sew second piece of Velcro to the right side of lining. Velcro should be centered, 3/8″ down from top, raw edge of lining.
8. With right sides together, place lining and exterior unsewn flap edges together and sew, leaving a 2″ opening for turning on top edge.
9. Clip the corners of all pieces and turn right side out through opening on top edge. Poke corners out with a chopstick or point turner if necessary.
10 Stuff lining into pouch and press. Slipstitch opening closed or topstitch top edge with sewing machine.
Fill your finished pouch with earbuds or keep it for yourself – it’s the perfect size for business cards, small jewelry, and more!
If you’ve picked up your latest copy of 
When I was in middle school, my mom bought me the most fantastic pair of convertible gloves – I wore them several winters until they got so worn out that I couldn’t use them any more…. and then I could never find a good replacement pair. That’s where the idea for 
Have a new baby or a shower to go to? Not only will 
I my opinion, the key to a vintage banner is the lettering. Since I don’t do paper crafting, I decided on the next best thing – 
After embroidering the letters, I used a fusible webbing on the backside of the material. I cut the fabric and frayed the edges slightly to give it a more ‘rustic’ feel – then ironed it directly onto a precut, 4.5″ X 6.5″ piece of paper. While the precut papers are pretty, they are still very flimsy. So, if you want them to last for years to come, you’ll probably want to back each letter with a card stock of the same size (I used a glue stick to adhere the papers together).
Next you’ll want to string your letters together. To do this, I used a hole punch to make two small holes on the top center of each letter (this not only seems to give each letter balance when strung, but also some ‘support’ so the string doesn’t eventually rip through the holes). I used a 1/4″ ribbon to hold them all together. Next up, string them up on your mantle, banister, or doorway and enjoy! Here’s how my finished fireplace looks so far:
Happy 
Do you have a fabric that intimidates you? For many of us that material is called “chiffon”: It’s slippery, doesn’t take to pins kindly, ravels easily…. just to name a few issues. However you can take the fear out of sewing with chiffon if you read my 
It’s tutorial time! If you were interested in stitching up the Flounce Sundress here’s your chance to make one for yourself! Let me start off by saying this design is adapted from 
2. To cut the ruffle, fold fabric in half lengthwise, again. From the fold draw a line across your fabric to your finished upper bust measurement. Measure down 7″ (if you have a very large bust I suggest this number be increased by an inch or so) and remove rectangle from fabric.
8. Open up your bias tape (press open the crease) and place along the belly button line you drew on your dress earlier and stitch. Overlap the ends by 1/4″ and fold over raw edge (to make a finished edge). Stitch along bottom edge of casing. Measure your waist, cut 1/2″ elastic to this length and insert through the waist casing. Overlap the ends 1/4″ and zig-zag stitch across the elastic. Push the elastic loop though the casing and distribute the fullness evenly.
The days are getting longer, the sun is coming up earlier, and chances are you’re going to want to get some sleep while the sun is still rising (or maybe even sneak in a nap?). Now it’s easier to get some shut-eye with one of these